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Restaurant review | Bamboo Thai Kitchen: Solid Thai dishes satisfy amid tropical decor
Some restaurants are hole-in-the-wall operations offering great food and little else. Some restaurants are fashionable destinations offering trendy cocktails and chef-finessed dishes. Some restaurants are “everyday” places offering solid cooking, decent beverages and efficient service in an often-bustling and upbeat setting. Bamboo Thai Kitchen — it replaced Bamboo Cafe a year and a half ago in an international-restaurant-rich Bethel Road strip mall — lands comfortably in the third category. Join the conversation at Facebook.com/columbusdispatch and connect with us on Twitter @DispatchAlerts Like its predecessor, Bamboo Thai Kitchen offers Vietnamese food and Chinese-American fare such as General Tso’s chicken in addition to Thai food. Because Bamboo Thai Kitchen’s owner, Taree Ledford, is a native of Thailand, and because I wouldn’t, say, order crab rangoon in a place that features authentic Chinese cuisine, I largely stuck with the restaurant’s classic Thai dishes. Ledford has largely stuck with the pleasant interior she received with the keys from the previous tenant. So diners can expect a slew of decorative bamboo — in live sprigs on tables, on an amusing thatched-roof cabanalike dining area and at a tiny bar. Playing off this tropical-island theme are colorful patterned cushions on chairs that accompany dark wooden tables. For a value-heavy starter, go with a generous cup of tom yum — the piquant, lemongrass-scented soup — or the similar but richer (from coconut milk) tom kha soup. Both are fragrant with vegetables and a shot of fish sauce, and both are priced by a chosen protein ($4.50 for tender chicken; $5 for good shrimp). When ordered “medium,” the chili component delivers an appreciable tingle. Compatible beverages for such spicy fare include a Singha beer ($4), a glass of Chateau Ste. Michelle riesling ($7) or a Thai iced coffee ($3) that’s sweet as chocolate milk and served in a curved parfait glass. For a shareable starter that could function as an entree, it’s hard to beat a Thai salad such as larb ($11). Rather than the usual ground chicken, this one features plenty of chopped warm breast meat. The standard bright dressing starring sweetened lime juice tweaked by chili and fish sauce is pretty much on target, as is the appealing crunch of (somewhat overly) toasted ground rice. Carrots, onions and a little lettuce accentuate the freshness. modest evening dresses
At a glance
Where: 774 Bethel Road Contact: www.bamboothaikitchen.com Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 1 to 8:30 p.m. Sundays Rating: 3 (out of five) Price range: $9 to $18 Ambience: pleasant space awash in decorative bamboo; service is efficient even when the modest-sized eatery is busy, which is often Children’s menu: no Reservations: yes Accessible: yes Liquor license: beer and wine Quick click: fresh-tasting, solidly executed Thai dishes are the star of the menu in a quaintly attractive, upbeat, family-run establishment http://www.dispatch.com/…/restaurant-review--bamboo-thai-ki… 
Restaurant review | Bamboo Thai Kitchen: Solid Thai dishes satisfy amid tropical decor
Some restaurants are hole-in-the-wall operations offering great food and little else. Some restaurants are fashionable destinations offering trendydispatch.com
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